Moving along.
1 day ago
This is our story of converting a MCI 102A3 tour Bus into a Motorhome in 90 days and blogging the ups & downs, pros & cons along with everything else it took to get the MICHAEL HARGIS SHOW on the road again. And now we are off the road and managing and rv resort. **************************************************** NOW we live and work in Tucson, AZ We have found another Bus "Ms. Neo!!!! All the Best! BLOG LIFE BEGAN JAN. 01.2009; See DISCLAIMER at bottom of page.
I had a idea. Let's save some work and leave the side panels in place. We can insulate and cover them over. But the wall chair support has to go which also supports the panels.
So I got some self-tapping screws and set them at the bottom of the lateral supports.
With a 1/2 inch drive drill motor I removed the large Phillps head screws and...........
BANG.
The whole unit hit the floor. LOL, so much for saving time. Back to the old addage"if you do it right the 1st time...". On the bright side, we have more salvage. Now I have to remove all the self-tapping screws. Once I got it cleaned up, I found a nice clean wall we can properly insulate and cover with bead board. Also, the panel spacers are held in place with a sealant and come right off. I can't wait, I have to do some framing.
About our MCI Bus
conversionsSpecifications - Length: 40 feet, Width: 102 inches, Height: 133 inches, Wheelbase: 285 inches, Turn radius: 44 feet, Typical Engines: DDA 8V-71, DDA 6V-92TA, DDA 8V-92TA, Seating: 43-49, Luggage: 319 cubic feet, Aisle width: 14 inches, Front door width: 24 inches
Removal of the ramp
Everything on this rig is built like a tank, even the ramp. 1st we need to clean the crud out of the screw heads. Lots of dirt crammed in them. I used a knife blade to break it up then blew it out. Remove the large Phillips screws then the small screws along the front sides. Then take your trusty flat bar and work it under the edge of the ramp to pry it up. When it pops loose, place a wedge under it so you can grip it with hands and lift it up and out of the floor. Do not step into the void as the plywood decking is only 1/4 inch thick and you may go through it. You will find more trash and coins here. Mmm, treasure! This ramp
is stout, I'll have to find a good use for it. Mmm, salvage.
Tomorrow, we frame in the void. Honey, get me the hammer and saw. We're Building, Baby!
This mostly consists of air shafts that run along the base of the side walls. Made of stainless steel ducting, it is rumored to be the resting place for all the lost small objects. Start in the front and remove all the screws (Philips) from the floor. Now the duct was built in sections. Remove the screws that connect each section. With a flat bar, lift the section, grab it and pull up and toward you. The top of the duct is only in a groove and will come free. Each section you remove is like a treasure hunt. Lots of coins, postcards, casino memorabilia, ballpoint pens, tokens and 2 ear
rings (1 gold and 1 small diamond) Oh, and a lot of trash.
Lots of good stainless
steel to be salvaged here. On to the air defusers we just uncovered. These are made of aluminum and are riveted to the wall. Drill out or shear them off to remove the fixture. You will find one on each side.
OK, to the rear return air housing. these are also on both sides. These are again made of aluminum and are riveted to the wall. Drill
out or shear them off to remove the fixture. You will find
more stuff in the duct in the floor. Next the ramp.
All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below
Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 3
for more manageable pieces. Go ahead and drill out or shear off the 2 rivets, then remove the 2 screws from the shield. Then un-do the heavy aluminum junction plate from the main heavy aluminum rail. Now remove the star screws, grab one end and wiggle the rail off the wall. The components are a little long and should be fed out a window but can fit out the door. Once outside, you can disassemble the components for salvage. We will be re-using a lot of this.
e comfort centers. These are held fast by rivets in insulated grommets. Drill out the rivets if you are going to re-use the grommets. If not, a wonder bar will pop them out and save a lot of time.
again cut and capped the wires at the front where they came out of the wall leaving 6 to 12 inch pigtails. Roll it up and set the bundle aside.
We need to remove the fluorescent light lenses. You will find them nearest the windows and under the compartments. They run the length of the over head storage. With needle nose pliers, grab the rubber keeper strip and pull. This will release one side of the lens. The other side is held by a rubber compression gasket. Grab the
lens firmly with both hands and pull it free. There is a lot of dust on the lens, so go slow.
bi-metal blade. Start the cut about 3" away from the vertical supports to reduce blade vibration. Continue cutting thru the plastic under side, to and thru the rear frame.
It's time to remove the vertical supports. First, unfasten the nuts along the wall, then unscrew the supports on the ceiling freeing the 8' section. This will just fit out the door. Almost done.
At first, this looks pretty cut and dry. But as I look closer, I can see that these compartments are constructed very well with a lot of components and one heck of a lot of screws. OK, step by step.
1st, turn the master battery switch off.
Remove the doors by unbolting the gas struts. Then using a Philips head screw motor, remove the screws from the hinge and the door will come off. The door latch has 4 Philips head screws to remove it. I removed all the components in an assembly line style, ie; all the struts, all the doors, and so on. It goes faster that way.
Now remove the Comfort stations. Remove the 4 Philips head screws and it will hang down by the light and speaker wires.
Take them apart at the wire disconnects. These components have good parts that can be re-used. The lights we will use as reading and accent lights throughout the bus along with the switches. I don't know what to do with the speakers.
Next, remove the door hinge base and light cover. Remove the 4 Philips head screws and the mount will swing out to you. Lift it straight up and it will come free. Be careful of the 3' fluorescent bulb under the cover. Then remove the bulbs and put them in a safe place.
You can salvage the stainless door hinges by drilling out the rivets. Then remove the very back padded panel by 6 Philips head screws. Take a flat pry bar to the middle front edge to pop it loose.
Now remover the bottom padded cover held by 6 Philips head screws and silicone caulk. You will have to push from the bottom in order to free this panel.
Now remove the side panels with a Philips screw driver. You will find 4' fluorescent bulbs in the back of the compartment. Remove the bulbs and put them in a safe place.
There is a lot of aluminum to be salvaged for re-use or recycle in these compartments.
Here is the result of my Saturday. I spent the day creating this pile of stuff that is as long as the bus. This is the end of Part 1. I will be back at it today, (Sunday). There is still a lot to do.
All the Best, Michael & Christi
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Seat Removal
We're Getting started People!!! Ahh, the task of removing the passenger seats is at hand. I'll go step by step. Start at the front.
There is a track on the floor and one on the wall. You will find 4 nuts and track bolts per bench seat.
Remove the nuts and the bench seat will be free to move.
Stand each of them on end and they will fit through the door.
The rear seats are removed by lifting the seat cushions, then lift the 3 back cushions straight up as a unit. Gravity holds them in place on simple hooks.
This task should take you approx. 4-1/2 hours. If your seats are in perfect condition, you can sell them. I found this site on line that talks about it. http://www.rv-coach.com/current_category.75/FAQ.66/faqs_detail.html If your seats are junk like mine are, you can dismantle some of them for building parts. The ones that are SO-SO, I will offer on Craig's list for bartering. The rest must go to the land fill. Hate to do that.
The bus has a lot more room now Honey.
All the Best, Michael & Christi
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