About Us, Michael & Christi Hargis

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Tucson/Tombstone, AZ, United States
WE are Retired, Entertainers PLEASE ADD a COMMENT or just say HI. You can click on any of the photos to enlarge them.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Removal of the upper Air Vent System (michael)

Removal of the Upper Air Vent System This mostly consists of air shafts that run along the base of the side walls. Made of stainless steel ducting, it is rumored to be the resting place for all the lost small objects. Start in the front and remove all the screws (Philips) from the floor. Now the duct was built in sections. Remove the screws that connect each section. With a flat bar, lift the section, grab it and pull up and toward you. The top of the duct is only in a groove and will come free. Each section you remove is like a treasure hunt. Lots of coins, postcards, casino memorabilia, ballpoint pens, tokens and 2 ear rings (1 gold and 1 small diamond) Oh, and a lot of trash. Lots of good stainless steel to be salvaged here. On to the air defusers we just uncovered. These are made of aluminum and are riveted to the wall. Drill out or shear them off to remove the fixture. You will find one on each side. OK, to the rear return air housing. these are also on both sides. These are again made of aluminum and are riveted to the wall. Drill out or shear them off to remove the fixture. You will find more stuff in the duct in the floor. Next the ramp.

All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Monday, March 2, 2009

Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 3 (michael)

Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 3
The last thing to do is remove the horizontal supports on the walls and ceiling. 1st along the wall. There is the main heavy aluminum rail that is affixed with Star screws. The ballast aluminum plate base is riveted to it and is supporting both the black aluminum shield, attached by 2 Philips head screws and the lite aluminum bottom rail that is held by rivets.
In approx. the middle of the supports, you will find a connection point for all 3 components. You can separate the rails here to make for more manageable pieces. Go ahead and drill out or shear off the 2 rivets, then remove the 2 screws from the shield. Then un-do the heavy aluminum junction plate from the main heavy aluminum rail. Now remove the star screws, grab one end and wiggle the rail off the wall. The components are a little long and should be fed out a window but can fit out the door. Once outside, you can disassemble the components for salvage. We will be re-using a lot of this.
Well, after that, the ceiling support is
a breeze. Unscrew the heavy aluminum junction plate in the middle of the rail. Unbolt the rail, grab one end and wiggle the rail off the ceiling. That's it. We will deal with the wires later, just make sure they are all capped.
Note the bin over the driver's seat. We'll leave it there for maps and such. Our new place is getting larger by the day and I can't wait to get on the road again!
All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 2

Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 2
It's time to remove all the wiring. We'll start with the lower wires that went to the comfort centers. These are held fast by rivets in insulated grommets. Drill out the rivets if you are going to re-use the grommets. If not, a wonder bar will pop them out and save a lot of time.
Mind the wires that are tucked into the frame work.
We were careful not to nick the wire so we could re-use it later.
We cut and capped the wires at the front where they came out of the wall leaving 6 to 12 inch pigtails. Fish them through the compartment supports. Roll it up and set the bundle aside.
Now remove the wires for the fluorescent lights.
There are a lot of connectors every 4'. Disconnect all of the wires. These insulated grommets are the crimp style. Open with a small flat bar or flat head screw driver and then fish them through the compartment supports. The space is narrow so feed the wire with one hand and pull with the other. The connectors will hang up on everything so just be patient. We again cut and capped the wires at the front where they came out of the wall leaving 6 to 12 inch pigtails. Roll it up and set the bundle aside. We need to remove the fluorescent light lenses. You will find them nearest the windows and under the compartments. They run the length of the over head storage. With needle nose pliers, grab the rubber keeper strip and pull. This will release one side of the lens. The other side is held by a rubber compression gasket. Grab the lens firmly with both hands and pull it free. There is a lot of dust on the lens, so go slow.
Once this is complete, you can remove the ballasts. There are two sitting side by side every 4'. Unscrew and pull them down. Cut the ground wire to free it.
Now you can cut the aluminum plate base that is riveted to the compartment frame work with a Saws-All. Use a bi-metal blade. Be careful of the blade grabbing at the end of the cut. Now you can cut the padded compartment frame work in 8' sections with the Saws-All using a bi-metal blade. Start the cut about 3" away from the vertical supports to reduce blade vibration. Continue cutting thru the plastic under side, to and thru the rear frame. It's time to remove the vertical supports. First, unfasten the nuts along the wall, then unscrew the supports on the ceiling freeing the 8' section. This will just fit out the door. Almost done.
All the Best,
Michael & Christi
Please Comment Below

Christi's Virgin Blog (christi)

Christi's Virgin Blog So, I've finally decided to sit myself down and give this a go. So, please be gentle in the comment section. :) I've been waiting for the right time to add my input to this blogging thing. As I was drying my hair this morning, (a mindless mundane chore that allows my thoughts to wander), I was going over Michael's last couple of blogs. I realized that now that the rig is here, a lot of his writing will be interesting only to those who are nuts enough (our soulmates), to take on this type of project. While it may be a learning experience or guideline for some, for others...BORING!! Much like Michael's favorite TV shows. You know, The History, Science and NASA channels, or, are you ready?... THE RESEARCH CHANNEL, (can't they make this stuff more exciting?). Ok, so I have a short attention span. Anyway, back to the task at hand. Right now Michael is taking out all the overhead compartments, which seem to be built to hold Tammy Faye's cosmetic case instead of the average person's carry-on luggage. This job requires taking out every screw, nut and bolt, one at a time. Too tedious for me! My idea of demolition requires a crow bar sledge hammer and a Saws-All. MMMM, love those power tools! But then he is a much more patient soul than I. I look forward to the part where we get to start putting in flooring, walls, replacing windows, etc. Now that's excitement! Ok, so I probably could use a little help in the excitement department, too. Now that the bus is finally here, I find myself wanting to say, "Is it done yet? Can we go now?" Alas, there's sooooooo much to do before we can go anywhere, and not just readying the bus. It's a bit overwhelming. But I'll save that for next time. Oh, Honey! Where's that sledge hammer?? All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Removal of the MCI Over Head Storage compartments. Part 1 (michael)

Removal of the Over Head Storage Compartments. Part 1 At first, this looks pretty cut and dry. But as I look closer, I can see that these compartments are constructed very well with a lot of components and one heck of a lot of screws. OK, step by step. 1st, turn the master battery switch off. Remove the doors by unbolting the gas struts. Then using a Philips head screw motor, remove the screws from the hinge and the door will come off. The door latch has 4 Philips head screws to remove it. I removed all the components in an assembly line style, ie; all the struts, all the doors, and so on. It goes faster that way. Now remove the Comfort stations. Remove the 4 Philips head screws and it will hang down by the light and speaker wires. Take them apart at the wire disconnects. These components have good parts that can be re-used. The lights we will use as reading and accent lights throughout the bus along with the switches. I don't know what to do with the speakers. Next, remove the door hinge base and light cover. Remove the 4 Philips head screws and the mount will swing out to you. Lift it straight up and it will come free. Be careful of the 3' fluorescent bulb under the cover. Then remove the bulbs and put them in a safe place. You can salvage the stainless door hinges by drilling out the rivets. Then remove the very back padded panel by 6 Philips head screws. Take a flat pry bar to the middle front edge to pop it loose. Now remover the bottom padded cover held by 6 Philips head screws and silicone caulk. You will have to push from the bottom in order to free this panel. Now remove the side panels with a Philips screw driver. You will find 4' fluorescent bulbs in the back of the compartment. Remove the bulbs and put them in a safe place. There is a lot of aluminum to be salvaged for re-use or recycle in these compartments. Here is the result of my Saturday. I spent the day creating this pile of stuff that is as long as the bus. This is the end of Part 1. I will be back at it today, (Sunday). There is still a lot to do. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Seat Removal MCI (michael)

Seat Removal We're Getting started People!!! Ahh, the task of removing the passenger seats is at hand. I'll go step by step. Start at the front. There is a track on the floor and one on the wall. You will find 4 nuts and track bolts per bench seat. Remove the nuts and the bench seat will be free to move. Stand each of them on end and they will fit through the door. The rear seats are removed by lifting the seat cushions, then lift the 3 back cushions straight up as a unit. Gravity holds them in place on simple hooks. This task should take you approx. 4-1/2 hours. If your seats are in perfect condition, you can sell them. I found this site on line that talks about it. http://www.rv-coach.com/current_category.75/FAQ.66/faqs_detail.html If your seats are junk like mine are, you can dismantle some of them for building parts. The ones that are SO-SO, I will offer on Craig's list for bartering. The rest must go to the land fill. Hate to do that. The bus has a lot more room now Honey. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Stage 2..........Done. It's Home (michael)

Stage 2..........Done. She's Home
We drove to Tucson, AZ to pick up our new baby. We waited in the parking lot of the Triple T Truck Stop. She has all the side windows broken, Both Sides! But Boy did she look good coming around the corner. She was coming home to us. We signed some papers. Went over buttons, switches and shifting tips. The seller, Trevor, showed us how to change the "Trip Sign", you'll never guess witch one we picked.... Music Please "On The Road Again". Yes, that is on our trip sign! I started the girl up, let out the clutch and....stall, Rats, not 3rd, 1st please. I try again. .... Music Please " On The Road Again ". This baby drives like a Cadillac. And its ours. We have waited a long long time for a rig like this. The proud father has a picture of her in our driveway. OUR DRIVEWAY! Ok, Ok, I'm done now. She's our wish come true. Stage 2...Done. She is Home. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

1st Stage.............Done, One To Go

1st Stage.............Done, One To Go
The Crown Supercoach is safe and sound in Tombstone.
It was a nerve racking way to save $500 bucks but it went off with a hitch. Haaahaaa. OK, I got pics:
Thank you Brother Larry Bowers, YOU DA MAN!
All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Buying Bus Conversion Insurance (michael)

Buying Bus Conversion Insurance What a pain in the B*TT! I have been asking other bus conversion buffs what they have done for insurance. It seems that one has to put their nose to the grindstone and call every insurance co. in the book to find one that offers full-coverage. Christi has been working on this one. Maybe I can get her to comment on it. Are buses a love/hate thing? I found this to be the best explanation on the web offered by Aon Recreation Insurance Co. The world of insurance can sometimes be difficult to navigate-especially when the investment you wish to insure is something as tough to define as a bus conversion. Don't despair, specialty RV insurance providers are very familiar with the unique needs of bus conversion owners. Post-9/11, the insurance market has been experiencing rough times. Insurance companies have experienced big losses and, with the stock market down, do not have the investment dollars to make up for those losses. So, we're seeing insurance companies retreat to lines of coverage that are the most profitable and predictable for them. How does this affect you, the bus conversion owner? You may see certain carriers choosing not to cover RVs or bus conversions anymore, or you may find that, as with most lines of insurance these days, small claims may result in a premium increase or even a loss of coverage. Also, in many cases, rates are increasing. With all these changes in the insurance industry, now's a good time to think about your coverage. Where to Start The first thing to know is there are two different ways to purchase insurance. You may either contact an insurance company directly or you can work with an insurance agent like us. There are a couple of disadvantages to dealing directly with an insurance company. First, it forces you to perform the feat of calling each company for their rates and coverage options to determine the best deal. As an agent, we do this work for you, checking with different insurance companies to find you the best rate and coverage for your vehicle. Insurance companies also give agents like Aon Recreation Insurance special coverage features to offer customers. By contacting an insurance company directly, you may be inadvertently shorting yourself on valuable coverage. Additionally, if problems arise during the claim process, agents become your advocate in dealing with the insurance company. And, contrary to what some RVers believe, agencies do not charge more or add fees to insurance companies' rates. School Bus Conversions With underwriting guidelines being tightened to keep losses in check, insurance companies are avoiding certain types of risk. One of the most well-known risks that most specialty RV insurance providers avoid is the school bus conversion. Very few companies will insure this type of vehicle. The main reason cited for this is the axle of a school bus is generally a narrower axle than that of a regular bus. Thus, when the additional weight of the conversion is added, it can result in a top-heavy vehicle, which is more susceptible to rollover accidents. Historically, more serious accidents have occurred to school-bus conversions as compared to regular bus conversions-enough that many companies are no longer willing to accept this risk. Older Bus Conversions Buses come under additional scrutiny because so many conversions are done on older vehicles. If your bus is older than 20 years, you may be asked to have a mechanic inspect it. This confirms that the bus's systems are up-to-date and working safely. Pre-Conversion Buses Since many of you buy buses you plan to convert yourself, building value in the vehicle as the months go by, you may need to insure it for physical damage before it's converted. You'll certainly want to have liability insurance (to pay for the other party's injuries if you're at fault in an accident) when transporting the bus from the dealership or place of purchase to your home or workshop. Many times, too, you will need to drive the bus to the upholstery shop or to a mechanic during the conversion process. Unfortunately, insurance companies do not offer temporary policies for RVs. You will need to purchase an insurance policy that lasts at least six months. You can get a liability-only policy, and the cost is generally minimal. If you opt for full coverage, a policy for a bus shell will generally have fewer features than a regular, fully-converted-bus policy. You will have less personal contents coverage and lower physical damage coverage because people usually don't carry as much stuff with them when they're in the middle of a conversion. For even a basic policy, most insurance companies requires the seats be removed and stipulate a period of time in which the conversion must be complete-typically a year-in order to continue providing coverage. Appraisals Once you find a policy you like, nearly all insurance companies will require an appraisal unless you are looking for a liability-only policy. The appraisal protects both you and the insurance company by establishing the value of the vehicle up front. It's in your best interest to have the vehicle professionally appraised so the insurance company knows what it's really worth. If you have a total loss and you didn't have an appraisal on record, it could be very difficult for the adjuster to ascertain what your vehicle was worth, since it was a one-of-a-kind custom coach. With a basic Actual Cash Value policy, the appraised value will serve as a starting point for the adjuster if you experience a total loss. The adjuster will consider when the appraisal was done and factor in depreciation to arrive at a settlement amount. To fully protect your investment over time, check with your insurance provider to see if they offer Agreed Value Coverage. Agreed Value Coverage locks in the appraisal value, and that amount is what you're paid if you experience a total loss-with no deduction for depreciation. The appraisal will need to be updated every two to three years. Your insurance provider should be able to refer you to a qualified appraiser or, in some cases, will allow you to do a complete evaluation of your own vehicle's condition. Your assessment can then be submitted to a valuation expert, who will search the market for comparable vehicles and, based on those and your vehicle assessment, place a value on your bus. This "self-evaluation" process allows you to have a hand in the appraisal, which makes sense because no one knows your bus better than you do. Once you get your insurance, don't forget that keeping good records of any improvements, changes or additions will protect you in between appraisals. Additionally, you should let your insurance provider know when you make changes that alter the value of your vehicle. In a total loss, the adjuster will take your updates into consideration. Bus conversions don't neatly fit into one vehicle category or another-unlike manufactured motorhomes-each one is unique. That doesn't mean you have to compromise on insurance. Specialty RV insurance providers have policies custom-made for your custom vehicle. When you purchase insurance, be sure you are working with a company that understands your lifestyle and your vehicle and has provided you with coverage that will amply cover your needs. With nearly four decades of experience insuring bus conversions, no one understands your unique vehicle like Aon Recreation Insurance, The Recreation Insurance Specialist. Aon has multiple carrier options and can provide you with a policy custom-designed for the special nature of your vehicle. Coverages may vary by state and company. Coverages are controlled by the policies issued and are not modified, extended or revised by the descriptions contained herein. Information offered on the web by Aon Recreation Insurance Co. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Thursday is the day (michael)

Thursday is the day. Man, there is alot going on Thursday. 8am my good friend Larry Bowers will swing by, pick me up and we're off to tow the 1952 Crown Supercoach Bus to Tombstone. This will be my 3rd attempt at this. The upside is, Larry is the man and I have complete confidence in his abilities. We couldn't start the bus to air up the brakes, so we're going to hook up a gas powered air compressor directly to the air lines. Then, hook up a tow bar and away we go. Top speed 25 mph for about 20 miles. Cross your fingers any way, just in case. Then its off to Benson, AZ to pick up the MCI in the late afternoon and drive it back to Tombstone and it's new home. This one should drive home. It should prove to be a fun-filled day. I will take the camera and get lots of pics. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Monday, February 23, 2009

Decisions, Decisions. (michael)

Decisions, Decisions.
My wife and I have been going over the aspects of hitting the road with the bare necessities vs. a completed bus conversion. We go forth and back, back and forth. A little compromise here, a little there.
Above is another plan that adds a full size couch, small table & chairs to the Salon, dye the existing fabric on the ceiling and leave the stainless steel toilet. Just kicking around some ideas. AND, We just heard that the MCI will be in the driveway this THURSDAY! "O'YEAH"
All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below

Sunday, February 22, 2009

1987 MCI, wide body Tour Bus. (michael)

1987 MCI, wide body Tour Bus. .................... We went to meet our new family member today and she is a beauty. She looks great. She sounds great. She rides great. Did I say " She's GREAT ". She should arrive home next week. All the Best, Michael & Christi Please Comment Below